Full Replacement Pack for 7 Stage Hydrogen Rich Reverse Osmosis Water Filter (GT1-11HFM)

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Full Replacement Pack for 7 Stage Hydrogen Rich Reverse Osmosis Water Filter

Replacement Pack Suited to the NEW 7 Stage Hydrogen Rich Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System


  • Stage 1: Poly Spun Dirt Sediment Water Filter 5 Micron
  • Stage 2: Pure Coconut Carbon Block Water Filter 5 Micron
  • Stage 3: Asprinn 50GPD NSF Certified Reverse Osmosis Membrane
  • Stage 4: T300 Hydrogen-Rich Water Filter Cartridge 1 Micron
  • Stage 5: Bio Ceramic FIR Infrared Cartridge
  • Stage 6: Puretron Inline Carbon Filter 1 Micron


Changing your filters:

While a licenced plumber should be conduction all work on plumbing by law, you may elect to change your filters yourself if you are confident in servicing your water filter.
Below are some simple steps to take to ensure the correct maintenance and handling of your water filter system.


  1. Shutting off the water: There are 3 things you need to do in this step, firstly, locate your inlet tee valve which connects water to your system and shit this off by turning the tap 90°. Secondly you will need to shut off the storage tank valve located on top of the storage tank. Finally, to relieve pressure in the system, open the faucet tap on the sink.

  2. Disconnecting the System: To make things easier, we recommend disconnecting the system and performing the filter change on the sink, rather than do everything in hard to reach places. NOTE: lay down some towels in case of some dripping water from the lines when disconnected. the 4 points you need to disconnect are; 1. the storage tank, we recommend detaching this via the tee fitting connected to the T300 Hydrogen Rich Filter. 2. the inlet water, this should be disconnected at the inlet to the system (elbow plugged in to stage 1 dirt sediment filter). 3. Drain line, this can be removed from the drain clamp itself, leaving the screw clamp in position around the pipe. 4. Finally, disconnect tubing from the top filter (inline carbon) which leads to the faucet tap. When this has been completed, you can then remove the system from under the sink and begin servicing it on the sink.

  3. Changing stage 1-2: When removing the bottom housings, you may find that they are very firmly tightened and may have some difficulty opening them which is normal for water filter housings. We find the most effective way of removing the housings is to lay the system flat on its back, position the opening spanner around the housing. Using the ball of your hand, sharply and firmly hit the spanner (lefty loosy) which will jolt the housing enough to break the suction seal of the O-Rings on the housing cap, once the housing has come ajar, use the spanner or your hands to unscrew the housing completely. NOTE: these housings may be full of water so make sure you do this over the sink. Remove the old cartridges and discard. If you would like to wash the housing out, we recommend using either a Hydrogen Peroxide water sanitiser, such as HydroSil-ULTRA (can be found in our store) or in warm soapy water. Ensure you rinse thoroughly before re-installing housings.
    When loading the new filter cartridges into the filter housing, unwrap them but ensure you handle the cartridges with minimal contact, especially the carbon filter, only handle these cartridges by the plastic end caps to avoid the carbon absorbing and residual odours or bacteria off your hands.
    When you go to do the housings back up, ensure they are in a vertical position, this will allow the filter to slot into the centre ports without damaging the inner port of the filter cartridge. When the filter is aligned, tighten by hand firmly so that the cartridge seats nice and square in the housing. 
    Tighten up firmly using the opening spanner to ensure no leaks.

  4. Changing the Inline Filters: Inline filters are very quick and simple to replace, you will require a spanner or shifter to remove and install the fittings.
    Always change the filters one at a time or take a photo of your existing system to ensure you remember which order and what direction the filters go.
    Disconnect the filter from the tubing on both ends and un-clip from the mounting brackets.
    Remove the fittings using a spanner if necessary.
    For best results, if possible, remove the existing thread tape from the fitting as best you can to expose a near new thread to re-install. Re-Wrap the fittings with 6-8 rounds of thread tape to ensure a nice seal, then screw in the fittings to the new filter cartridge. Clamp on the filter and then re-connect the tubing.

  5. Changing the Membrane: Disconnect the tubing from the screw cap end of the membrane housing. Remove the cap to expose the stem of the RO membrane. Using pliers or multi-grips grab onto the stem and twist and pull to wiggle the membrane out.
    Discard the membrane. Unwrap the new membrane (only handle by the stems) then push firmly into the membrane housing, ensuring its in the right way. Screw the cap back on firmly to ensure no leaks, then plug in the tubing.

  6. Restarting the System: It is required that you check over your work, ensure all fittings are in correctly and all tubing is in the correct place, go around and check all tubing to ensure it is firmly pushed into the fittings and sealed.
    Re-position the system under the sink and re-connect the tubing (inlet water, storage tank, drain line, and faucet tap.)

    With the faucet still open, turn on your inlet water which will provide water back to the system, allowing the canisters to fill with water, you will likely hear some sputtering out the faucet tap while the system purges air. During this period, inspect the filter system and check for leaks, if you find a leak, shut off the water and address the issue and restart the process of re-installing the system.

    The water will eventually begin to flow out the tap and you will notice some black water come out which is normal as the filters begin to flush. Once you feel the system has purged most of the air, close the faucet tap then turn the storage tank ON, open the faucet on the sink and allow all the water to run down the sink, this will flush the post filters and also help clear the excess air from the system.

    If you still have air (which will look like cloudy water but will settle) you may need to run 1 more tank full of water through the system and then it will be good to go.

    If you run into any issues during this process or would like some help, do not hesitate to give us a call or email us for assistance.